Look, pedals

One of the first things that happens to anyone who has used one of the various forms of clipless pedals is a moment of sheer terror. One moment you'll be happily cycling along when up ahead the lights will change to red.
'Ah ha, no problem' you'll think. A bit of brake, avoid the pothole: Bob's your uncle and Fanny might well be your aunt.
Then, with your speed at around half a metre per second, the sudden panic sets in as you realise you're still attached to your bike by your feet.
Frantic pulling ensues before you finally remember to twist your heel. Your foot pops out and you stabilise yourself about 1/10,000 of a second before you would have fallen over to the sound of an imaginary swanee whistle, making everyone at the bus stop opposite smirk.
Fortunately you learn this lesson PDQ and your clipless pedals soon become a close friend.
I recount this lesson as I've recently switched to using Look pedals for the very first time and I confess, I'm struggling to adjust a bit.

Like a decadent night club: lovely but a bugger to get into

I've always used SPDs, even on road bikes. Probably because I rode a mountain bike for years, I just really get on with SPDs.
While I haven't come close to toppling over with the Look pedals, I find them much more difficult to clip in rather than clip out.
So, while with SPDs from a standing start, you are just up and away, the amount of faffing around you have to do at 3mph trying to get the Look pedal and plate to the right position is a bit of a pain in the arse I'm afraid to say.
Obviously, I need to persevere and I'm sure I'll get my technique down in due course. But it's particularly important when cycling through traffic to get out in front of cars from the lights - make them see you and all that jazz.
This is quite tricky to achieve when your trying to marry two components which are necessarily invisible to you.
The resulting pedalling with the arch of one of your feet is ungainly and not especially effective.
I'm sure I'll get better at it in due course.

Barrel of laughs. Sheered adjuster on Specialized Allez

One of the most fiddly and annoying things ever to happen to my Specialized Allez  was when I discovered that one of the downtube barrel adjusters had sheered off leaving the thread encased inside the downtube boss.
I discovered this as I was in the process of stripping it down to upgrade the group set to Shimano 105 - off the peg you get a mix of Sora and Tiagra.
After loosening the cables off and pulling them back through the shifters, I found the thumb twist top of the rear mech adjuster on the floor and the thread still in situ.
Ah ha, I thought, long-nosed pliers will do the job.  If I can get a good enough grip from the underside, a clockwise turn should see it out.  No chance.
Despite the lower part of the thread protruding enough to get a grip on it, there was no way I could get the required purchase.
Plan B.  If I drive a screw into it from below, that might help turn it out the other end.  I found the perfect screw for the job and began turning.  A couple of turns in, a satisfying 'click' sound came from the frame.  Removing the screw I found about 3mm of the adjuster thread had been stripped away by the screw.  Smugly satisfied, I shone my torch into the boss to view my handy work. Bugger!
All I'd successfully managed to do was remove the lower section of the adjuster thread up to the point where it engaged with the thread inside the boss.  So I now had around 3mm of adjuster thread stuck fast inside the boss.
There was only one thing for it - fetch the drill.
I was really apprehensive about taking a drill to my bike but it was the final option really.  I figured that as the adjuster thread is hollow - to allow the cable to run through - if I could drill in a reasonably straight line, with the right sized bit, I should be able to remove the last piece of adjuster thread without stripping the boss thread.
3mm bit looked about right and if you ever have to do this, use a drill with a variable speed - one that starts turning very slowly.  On the first attempt, I felt the bit engage then as I increased the load, disaster, a high-pitched 'ching' sound and the bit had snapped.  On to my second and only other 3mm bit, same procedure and I watched as a thin cork-screw of black metal turned out of the bit.
Looking inside, it looked pretty good.
Using the opposite side adjuster which had been removed in tact, it screwed in and out just fine - it bloody worked!
Only slightly more challenging than removing the dislocated thread was finding a replacement as Specialized dealers don't stock them and Specialized themselves advise you to ask your dealer. Hmmmm.
I ended up with the insides of a couple of Ritchey rear mech adjusters which work a treat.
So, is there a moral to the story? Yes, grease the buggers before they seize.
Ride safe

New boots

I'm really hoping that I'll be able to take my 'summer' bike out this weekend.
This is the first year when I've had a dedicated summer and a winter hack bike at my disposal.
The summer machine is a stock 2010 Specialzed Allez Sport which I've upgraded with 105 groupset and a few other bits and bobs. It's not the pinnacle of cycling hardware but it's my bike; my trusty steed and we've done thousands of miles together.
I rode it last in the dead of winter on the turbo trainer and, as a consequence, there's a 2mm strip worn through in the back tyre. So, here's the question which faces all cyclists: which tyres should I use?
People get obsessive about tyres: 'only use conties me' or 'I use bonties, they're superb'.
For me, and keeping up with the absurd abbreviation requirement, I favour michies. I did have a spell of using vredestein slicks on a mountain bike years ago, which were superb incidentally, but I generally stick to Michelin Pro Race 3 boots.
I've not ridden on all tyres in all conditions but I do find I trust the grip with these guys.
Shop around for them though as you can practically get a 2 for 1 on some of the prices. I just paid £36 for two which is a cracking buy I reckon.
Ride safe.